ESC
An ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) is needed to control the rotations of an electric engine. At the time of brushed engines, the esc was needed to vary the voltage of the battery to control the speed of the engine, but when brushless engines appeared, there was a big change on the ESC's, most easy you can see that, on the fact that brushless ESC's have now three cables to the engine and not anymore two. Also the ESC is now not anymore controling the voltage, it is now controling an electric field which tells the engine how fast it should rotate.
Basics:
The ESC is the last thing in the power chain which will be choosen. If you have choosen an engine with a prop and also the voltage of the battery, then there are two important things to choose the correct ESC: 1. Current, you need to know how much current (A) your engine will draw. Add 10% to this value and you know how much current the ESC need to take at least. 2. Voltage, an ESC can only work in a range of voltage which is set by the manufactur. If you will use a 5S battery, the ESC also needs to be able to take 5S.
Correct setup:
Most model pilots never set up their ESC's, they mostly don't know which power potential is still in the components. Thats why, here it is a short manual how to set up an ESC correct.
At first, we need to know that every ESC needs another kind of programming, thats why we need the manual of it. I'm downloading all the manuals for my ESC's as PDF and save them in my Dropbox, so I also have access to it, even if I'm on the flying field and would need it.
At first, you should check the roation direction of the engine. If it is correct, everything is fine. If not, there are two ways to change it. Either you swap two cables of the three which are going from the ESC to the engine, or you can program it with the manual. Both methods does not have any advantages or disadvantages. But please, never swap the cables from the battery to the ESC, if you do that, this ESC will never ever control an engine again...
As second, you should set up the throttle way, if you don't do that, most ESC will start at about 25% and reach full throttle at about 75%. So you would miss a lot of the throttle way and sensitive steering would then be nearly impossible.
As third, you should know if you will need a engine break. This doesnt mean any different then, that the ESC will try to stop the engine when the throttle is 0%. If you are using a folding prop, then you need to activate that, otherwise it will remain spinning. Also when you#re using models like a pylonracer or a funjet. if you are flying a aerobatic model, you won't need the brake.
As fourth, you should set up the LVC, which means Low Voltage Cut-off. This is needed to save your batteries. If the voltage will fall under the set limit, it will stop the engine to prevent a deep discharge. here it is important to setup the type of the battery and the cell amount correct. Some ESC's can also autodetect the cell amount. Here it is important, that you choose what the ESC will do if that happens. Mostly you can choose between nothing, slow cut off und hard cut off.
As fifth, you should check if you will need a soft start up. if you are using a gearbox or a helicopter, you will need that. If you use a direct drive, you don't need it.
Most ESC's does have many other functions, it would be too much to explain them all here. So this have been the basics you should set up all the time to be on the safe and working side.
At first, we need to know that every ESC needs another kind of programming, thats why we need the manual of it. I'm downloading all the manuals for my ESC's as PDF and save them in my Dropbox, so I also have access to it, even if I'm on the flying field and would need it.
At first, you should check the roation direction of the engine. If it is correct, everything is fine. If not, there are two ways to change it. Either you swap two cables of the three which are going from the ESC to the engine, or you can program it with the manual. Both methods does not have any advantages or disadvantages. But please, never swap the cables from the battery to the ESC, if you do that, this ESC will never ever control an engine again...
As second, you should set up the throttle way, if you don't do that, most ESC will start at about 25% and reach full throttle at about 75%. So you would miss a lot of the throttle way and sensitive steering would then be nearly impossible.
As third, you should know if you will need a engine break. This doesnt mean any different then, that the ESC will try to stop the engine when the throttle is 0%. If you are using a folding prop, then you need to activate that, otherwise it will remain spinning. Also when you#re using models like a pylonracer or a funjet. if you are flying a aerobatic model, you won't need the brake.
As fourth, you should set up the LVC, which means Low Voltage Cut-off. This is needed to save your batteries. If the voltage will fall under the set limit, it will stop the engine to prevent a deep discharge. here it is important to setup the type of the battery and the cell amount correct. Some ESC's can also autodetect the cell amount. Here it is important, that you choose what the ESC will do if that happens. Mostly you can choose between nothing, slow cut off und hard cut off.
As fifth, you should check if you will need a soft start up. if you are using a gearbox or a helicopter, you will need that. If you use a direct drive, you don't need it.
Most ESC's does have many other functions, it would be too much to explain them all here. So this have been the basics you should set up all the time to be on the safe and working side.
BEC:
BEC stands for Battery Eliminating Circuit and means that there is no receiver battery necessary. Most newer ESC's until 6S have a built in BEC that ismostly only usable until 3A draw. 3A are enough for most models up to 1.5m, but if you have a bigger plane, a 3D plane or you are using more then 6S, you should use an external BEC. To use an "external BEC" is, of course, said false, but over the years, the term BEC is used as "where the power for the receiver and servos is coming from". An external BEC can be a 4-5 cell NiMh or a 2S LiPo / LiFe used or an electronical BEC with 2S or more LiPo / LiFe.
ESC's used by me:
Name: Phoenix ICE 75
Manufactur: Castle Creations
Ampere: 75A const.
Cell count: 2-8S
BEC: 5A SBEC
Price: 100€
Model: T-Rex 500 ESP
Manufactur: Castle Creations
Ampere: 75A const.
Cell count: 2-8S
BEC: 5A SBEC
Price: 100€
Model: T-Rex 500 ESP
The ICE 75 is by far the best ESC I ever had in my hands. I only can recommend that you buy also the computer interface, whith that, it is much easier to program and also you can use the logging function. A special function is also Set-RPM, here you programm up to three different speeds with the computer and during flight you can choose between them.
Pro: Set-RPM, Logging, very good governor, very good computer software.
Con: Battery cables are too thick for 4mm gold plugs -> usw 5,5mm, quite big and heavy.
Pro: Set-RPM, Logging, very good governor, very good computer software.
Con: Battery cables are too thick for 4mm gold plugs -> usw 5,5mm, quite big and heavy.
Name: Trust 70
Manufacturer: Hobbyking
Ampere: 70A const.
Cell count: 2-6S
BEC: 3A SBEC
Price: 30€
Model: Minius, Piper L4
Manufacturer: Hobbyking
Ampere: 70A const.
Cell count: 2-6S
BEC: 3A SBEC
Price: 30€
Model: Minius, Piper L4
The name is program, the ESC works since countless flighty in the Minius and Piper without any problems. The program able functions and the BEC are enough as long as you won't need more then 3A. Unfortunately, today, it needs to be said if there is a 3A BEC which also can deliver really 3A.
Pro: Price / performance ratio.
Con: Nothing.
Pro: Price / performance ratio.
Con: Nothing.
Name: SS Series 60-70A
Manufacturer: Hobbyking
Ampere: 60A const., 70A burst
Cell count: 4-8S
BEC: None
Price: 15€
Model: Votec 322
Manufacturer: Hobbyking
Ampere: 60A const., 70A burst
Cell count: 4-8S
BEC: None
Price: 15€
Model: Votec 322
A very good and reliable ESC whith less functions and a kind of slow acceleration. Works flawless and without any problems.
Pro: Price.
Con: Kind of slow acceleration and less functions.
Pro: Price.
Con: Kind of slow acceleration and less functions.
Name: 60A ESC 4A UBEC
Manufacturer: Hobbyking
Ampere: 60A const., 80A burst
Cell count: 2-4S
BEC: 4A SBEC
Price: 18€
Modell: Radjet 800
Manufacturer: Hobbyking
Ampere: 60A const., 80A burst
Cell count: 2-4S
BEC: 4A SBEC
Price: 18€
Modell: Radjet 800
This ESC was tortured in the Radjet to the utmost, 4S with 67A he needed to handle, but the heat development was also very much. If using with high amps, use a good cooling! The program abilities are very extensive and unfortunately also very time consumpting. To go trough all possibilitys you'll need at least 30 minutes. i can't say much to the BEC because the Radjet only uses two small servos.
Pro: Mentioned ampere seems to be full in its range, very extensive program options.
Con: programing lasts interminably.
Pro: Mentioned ampere seems to be full in its range, very extensive program options.
Con: programing lasts interminably.
Name: Superbrain 60A
Manufacturer: Hobbyking
Ampere: 60A const., 70A burst
Cell count: 2-6S
BEC: 4A SBEC
Price: 45€
Model: HK500GT
Manufacturer: Hobbyking
Ampere: 60A const., 70A burst
Cell count: 2-6S
BEC: 4A SBEC
Price: 45€
Model: HK500GT
By far the worst expensive ESC I've ever bought. Soft start with 6S isn't working, governor useless, firmware updates are complicate, computer software unuseable. I can't recommend it...
Pro: Looks quite good in the box.
Con: Everything.
Pro: Looks quite good in the box.
Con: Everything.
Name: Trust 45
Manufacturer: Hobbyking
Ampere: 45A const.
Cell count: 2-6S
BEC: 3A SBEC
Price: 18€
Model: -
Manufacturer: Hobbyking
Ampere: 45A const.
Cell count: 2-6S
BEC: 3A SBEC
Price: 18€
Model: -
Because of the good experience with the Trust 70 ESC I ordered this one for a colleague. Optical and function wise it is identical with the 70A version, only the size and the max. ampere are smaller.
Pro: Price / performance ratio.
Con: Nothing.
Pro: Price / performance ratio.
Con: Nothing.
Name: 30A ESC 3A UBEC
Manufacturer: Hobbyking
Ampere: 30A const., 40A burst
Cell count: 2-4S
BEC: 3A SBEC
Price: 9€
Modell: Electrolyte
Manufacturer: Hobbyking
Ampere: 30A const., 40A burst
Cell count: 2-4S
BEC: 3A SBEC
Price: 9€
Modell: Electrolyte
Already in the Radjet this ESC was worth the money, that's why I also choosed it for the Electrolyte. As in the Radjet, it is working also here without any problems and very reliable.
Pro: Works reliable and is cheap.
Con: Very time intensive programming.
Pro: Works reliable and is cheap.
Con: Very time intensive programming.
Name: 30A
Manufacturer: Mystery
Ampere: 30A const.
Cell count: 2-3S
BEC: 3A lin.BEC
Price: 10-15€
Model: Voodoo, F16 Mini Jet, AMX Mini Jet
Manufacturer: Mystery
Ampere: 30A const.
Cell count: 2-3S
BEC: 3A lin.BEC
Price: 10-15€
Model: Voodoo, F16 Mini Jet, AMX Mini Jet
A very cheap ESC you can finde quite often on eBay. Works good and without problems, but he doesn't have any program features expect the brake and type of battery.
Pro: Good prive / performance ratio.
Con: Less program functions.
Pro: Good prive / performance ratio.
Con: Less program functions.
BEC's used by me:
Name: 10A BEC
Manufacturer: Castle Creations
Ampere: 5A to 7A const., 10A burst
Cell count: 2-6S
Price: 20€
Model: Votec 322 with 5x Corona DS-238MG
Manufacturer: Castle Creations
Ampere: 5A to 7A const., 10A burst
Cell count: 2-6S
Price: 20€
Model: Votec 322 with 5x Corona DS-238MG
A really very stable BEC which can be set up very easy with the computer program by Castle. The 5 DS-238MG draw on the ground already 5A to 7A and in the air it won't be less. The BEC does what it promise and I only can recommend it!
Name: 3A UBEC with low voltage alarm
Manufacturer: Turnigy
Ampere: 3A const., 4A burst
Cell count: 2-5S
Price: 4€
Model: Pilatus B4 with 5x PowerHD D65HB
Manufacturer: Turnigy
Ampere: 3A const., 4A burst
Cell count: 2-5S
Price: 4€
Model: Pilatus B4 with 5x PowerHD D65HB
A good BEC which can be choosen between 5.1V or 6.1V with a jumper on board. With 5 D65Hb it doesn't have any problems. unfortunately i wasn't able to test the loudness of the low voltage alarm because I haven#t been able to empty the LiPo that much until yet.